How to Care for Your Handmade Wooden Items

Cutting boards, wooden spoons, salad bowls, and other food-contact items need regular oiling to prevent drying and cracking. Use food-grade mineral oil (available at any pharmacy or kitchen supply store) — it's odorless, tasteless, and won't go rancid like cooking oils. Apply a generous coat, let it soak for 15-30 minutes (or overnight for very dry pieces), then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth.

After oiling, a thin coat of food-grade beeswax/mineral oil blend (often called board butter or board cream) creates a protective barrier that repels water and gives the wood a soft sheen. Apply with a cloth, rub in well, let it sit for 20 minutes, then buff. This step is especially important for pieces that see frequent water contact.

Wash wooden items quickly with warm water and mild soap, then dry immediately with a towel. Never submerge wood in water or let it sit in a wet sink. For non-food items like furniture and decorative pieces, wipe with a slightly damp cloth followed by a dry cloth.

Wood is hygroscopic — it absorbs and releases moisture from the surrounding air, expanding and contracting as it does. This movement is normal but can cause problems if it's extreme or rapid. Keep wooden furniture and items away from heating vents, radiators, and air conditioning outlets. In very dry climates or during winter heating season, consider using a humidifier to keep indoor humidity between 40-60%.

Dust wooden furniture with a soft, dry cloth or a microfiber duster. Follow the grain direction when wiping. For finished furniture (lacquered, varnished, or waxed), avoid silicone-based furniture sprays — they create buildup that's difficult to remove and can interfere with future refinishing. A light application of paste wax once or twice a year is sufficient for most finishes.

Running wooden cutting boards through the dishwasher

What happens: The prolonged water immersion, high heat, and harsh detergents in a dishwasher strip all oil and finish from the wood, then cause rapid drying. The result is cracking, warping, splitting at glue joints, and rough-raised grain. One dishwasher cycle can damage what took years to develop.

Instead: Hand-wash quickly with warm soapy water, rinse, and dry immediately. Stand upright to air-dry completely before storing.

Using cooking oils (olive, coconut, vegetable) to treat wood

What happens: Cooking oils go rancid over time, creating an unpleasant smell and potentially unsafe surface on food-contact items. They also tend to create a sticky surface that attracts dust and dirt.

Instead: Use food-grade mineral oil for all food-contact wood items. It's inexpensive, odorless, tasteless, and never goes rancid. Walnut oil is an acceptable alternative if there are no nut allergies in the household (it does eventually polymerize and harden).

Placing hot pots or pans directly on wooden surfaces

What happens: Extreme heat can scorch the wood, leave white marks in finishes (heat blushing in lacquer and varnish), or cause localized drying and cracking. Damage from heat is often permanent and difficult to repair.

Instead: Always use trivets or hot pads between hot cookware and wooden surfaces, including cutting boards and furniture.

Leaving water rings or wet items on wooden furniture

What happens: Standing water penetrates most finishes over time, leaving white rings or dark stains in the wood itself. White rings indicate moisture trapped in the finish; dark stains mean moisture has reached the wood, which is much harder to repair.

Instead: Use coasters and placemats. Wipe up spills immediately. If a white water ring forms, try placing a clean cloth over it and briefly pressing with a warm (not hot) iron — the heat can draw the moisture back out of the finish.