Handmade glossary · Jewelry & Metalwork · 2026-05-29
Jewelry and Metalwork Glossary: What Makers Actually Mean
The difference between gold-filled and gold-plated, or between hand-forged and cast, can mean hundreds of dollars and decades of durability. This glossary defines the metals, techniques, and standards that jewelers and metalsmiths use to describe their work — so you can make informed decisions about quality and value.
Sterling silver
Also known as: .925 silver, 925
An alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, typically copper. Pure silver (fine silver, .999) is too soft for most jewelry and functional objects, so copper is added for hardness and durability. Sterling silver is the standard for handmade silver jewelry and hollowware worldwide. The 925 stamp indicates sterling composition.
Buyer tip
Look for a 925 stamp on the piece. Sterling silver will tarnish over time — this is normal oxidation from exposure to air and sulfur compounds. Regular wearing actually slows tarnish because the friction keeps the surface polished. Silver-plated items look identical when new but have a thin silver coating over base metal that wears off over time.
Gold-filled
Also known as: GF, gold fill
A layered material where a thick layer of gold alloy is mechanically bonded (heat and pressure) to a brass core. By US FTC standards, gold-filled must contain at least 5% gold by weight. The gold layer is 50 to 100 times thicker than gold plating. Gold-filled jewelry can last decades of daily wear without the gold layer wearing through.
Buyer tip
Gold-filled is the best value option for gold-color jewelry that lasts. It is significantly more durable than gold-plated, costs a fraction of solid gold, and is safe for most people with sensitive skin. Look for markings like 14/20 GF (14-karat gold, 1/20th of total weight). Hand jewelers often prefer gold-filled wire and sheet for this reason.
Gold-plated
Also known as: GP, electroplated
A thin layer of gold deposited onto a base metal (usually brass or copper) through electroplating. The gold layer is typically 0.5 to 2.5 microns thick — thin enough that it can wear off with regular use, exposing the base metal underneath. Gold plating is the most affordable way to achieve a gold appearance but has the shortest lifespan.
Buyer tip
Gold-plated jewelry is fine for occasional wear or trendy pieces you do not expect to last for years. For daily-wear items like wedding bands or everyday earrings, gold-filled or solid gold will last much longer. If the price seems too good for gold, it is almost certainly plated.
Vermeil
Also known as: gold vermeil
Sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold, at least 2.5 microns thick and at least 10-karat gold (US FTC definition). Vermeil is a step above standard gold plating because the base metal is sterling silver (not brass) and the gold layer is thicker. If the gold wears through, sterling silver is underneath — not base metal.
Buyer tip
Vermeil is a good middle ground: more durable than plated, less expensive than solid gold, and the sterling silver base means it is hypoallergenic for most people. Verify that the seller specifies the gold thickness and karat — not all gold-over-silver meets the FTC definition of vermeil.
Karat
Also known as: kt, K
A measure of gold purity on a 24-part scale. 24-karat gold is pure gold (99.9%). 18-karat is 75% gold (18/24). 14-karat is 58.3% gold (14/24). 10-karat is 41.7% gold (10/24), the minimum to be legally called gold in the United States. The remaining percentage is alloy metals (copper, silver, zinc, nickel) that add hardness and can change the color (rose gold uses more copper; white gold uses nickel or palladium).
Buyer tip
Higher karat means more gold content, richer yellow color, and higher price — but also softer metal that scratches and dents more easily. 14K is the most popular choice in the US for daily-wear jewelry because it balances gold content, durability, and cost. 18K is standard in Europe and preferred for its deeper color.
Hand-forged
Also known as: forged, hammer-formed
Metal shaped by heating and hammering on an anvil. In jewelry, hand-forging typically involves shaping wire or sheet metal using hammers, stakes, and mandrels. In blacksmithing, it involves heating steel or iron in a forge and shaping it while hot. Hand-forged pieces show hammer marks, planishing textures, and the slight irregularities that come from working metal by hand.
Buyer tip
Hammer marks on hand-forged pieces are intentional evidence of the process, not flaws. A hand-forged ring or bracelet will have texture and character that cast pieces do not. The metalsmith can also adjust sizing and proportions during forging — something that casting does not allow after the mold is made.
Cast
Also known as: investment cast, lost-wax cast
A piece made by creating a wax model, investing (encasing) it in plaster, burning out the wax, and pouring molten metal into the resulting cavity. Lost-wax casting allows complex, three-dimensional forms that would be impossible to fabricate from sheet or wire. The technique has been used for thousands of years. Modern jewelers often carve the original wax by hand, then cast it.
Buyer tip
Casting is not inherently mass-production. Many jewelers hand-carve unique wax models and cast them individually. Ask whether the original model was hand-carved by the maker or produced by a CAD/3D printing workflow. Both are legitimate, but a hand-carved wax is a one-of-a-kind piece even after casting.
Bezel set
A stone-setting technique where a thin band of metal is wrapped around the perimeter of the stone and pressed down to hold it in place. Bezel settings fully enclose the stone's edge, protecting it from impact. They are one of the oldest and most secure setting methods. Bezel setting by hand requires precision metalwork — the bezel must fit the stone exactly.
Buyer tip
Bezel settings are more protective of stones than prong settings and are a good choice for rings worn daily. They have a cleaner, more modern look. Hand-fabricated bezels (made from strip metal shaped to the stone) indicate a higher level of craftsmanship than pre-made commercial bezel cups, though both are functional.
Oxidized
Also known as: patinated, antiqued
A controlled darkening of silver or copper surfaces using chemical solutions (liver of sulfur is the most common). The oxidation fills recessed areas of the design with dark tones while raised surfaces are polished bright, creating contrast and depth. Oxidation is a surface treatment, not a permanent change — it can wear off with heavy use and be reapplied.
Buyer tip
Oxidized jewelry has a deliberately darkened, aged appearance. This is an intentional design choice, not tarnish. Be aware that the dark finish can lighten over time with wear. Some makers seal oxidized pieces with wax or lacquer to slow this process. Ask the maker about their finishing method if the dark contrast is important to you.
Hallmark
A stamp or mark on precious metal indicating the metal content, maker's identity, and sometimes the assay office that tested it. In the United Kingdom and many European countries, hallmarking is legally required for precious metals above certain weights. In the United States, hallmarking is voluntary but the metal content stamp (925, 14K, etc.) is regulated by the FTC.
Buyer tip
A hallmark or metal content stamp provides verifiable information about what you are buying. On very small pieces (thin rings, delicate chains), there may not be room for a stamp. In that case, the maker should be able to tell you the exact metal composition and provide documentation if requested.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated?
Gold-filled has a mechanically bonded gold layer that is 50 to 100 times thicker than gold plating. Gold-filled jewelry can last decades; gold plating typically wears off within months to a few years of regular wear. Gold-filled also requires the gold to be at least 5% of the total weight by FTC standards.
Is handmade jewelry more expensive than mass-produced?
Usually, yes. A hand-forged ring takes hours of skilled labor; a cast ring from a factory mold takes minutes. However, handmade jewelry offers individual attention to fit, finish, and design that factory production cannot match. The maker can also customize dimensions, finishes, and stone selections for each customer.
How can I tell if jewelry is handmade?
Look for maker's marks (initials or symbols stamped by the maker), evidence of hand fabrication (solder joints, hammer textures, hand-set stones), and individual variation. Machine-made jewelry has perfectly uniform surfaces, identical pieces in a line, and no visible tool marks. A maker who describes their process in detail is more credible.
What does hypoallergenic mean for jewelry?
Most jewelry allergies are reactions to nickel, which is used as an alloy in some white gold, silver, and base metals. Sterling silver, 14K or higher gold, gold-filled, platinum, and titanium are generally safe for nickel-sensitive skin. If you have metal sensitivities, ask the maker about the specific alloy composition.
Should I choose a bezel or prong setting for a ring?
Bezel settings are more protective and lower-profile — better for active lifestyles and daily wear. Prong settings allow more light into the stone, making it sparkle more, but prongs can catch on fabric and bend. For everyday rings, especially with softer stones, bezel settings are generally more practical.
What is the difference between handmade and hand-assembled jewelry?
Handmade means the maker fabricated the piece from raw materials — shaping wire, soldering, setting stones, forging, or carving wax for casting. Hand-assembled means the maker connected pre-made components (commercial chains, manufactured findings, purchased pendants). Both involve hand work, but the skill and time involved are different.
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